Unveiling Brocade: A Timeless Tradition of Luxury and Craftsmanship

Bhumi Pednekar’s latest look for Mere Husband Ki Biwi is a stunning tribute to India’s intricate craftsmanship, featuring a rare khinkaab lehenga and a zardozi hasli blouse from the revivalist brand Pankaj S. Heritage. Unlike a typical Banarasi brocade, this lehenga is made from khinkaab, one of the richest brocade variations hailing from Varanasi. The fabric, which historically featured gold and silver zari threads, was known for its thick texture, earning its name for being “devoid of air.” The lehenga’s intricate panels showcase forest-inspired motifs like deer, elephants, and peacocks, all set in delicate filigree.

The blouse, a showstopper in itself, features an heirloom-quality hasli necklace—a blend of traditional Indian techniques like jadau, Bikaneri meenakari, and kundan. The bottle-green blouse serves as the perfect canvas for the kaleidoscopic design. Completing the ensemble, stylist Meagan Concessio layered the hasli with a jadau and piroi pearl choker from Amrapali and paired it with Bugadi ear cuffs, a traditional accessory from Maharashtra, sourced from Olio Stories. It’s a look that beautifully fuses heritage with modern bohemian elegance.

Brocade is a luxurious and intricate fabric known for its rich texture, often woven with gold or silver threads to create raised patterns or designs. It’s a fabric that has been historically tied to opulence, with its roots deeply embedded in European and Asian textile traditions. The weaving technique used in brocade is often a jacquard weave, where the pattern is incorporated directly into the fabric, giving it a three-dimensional quality.

In India, brocade has long been associated with royal and ceremonial attire. Banarasi brocade, particularly, is one of the most revered forms, traditionally woven in Varanasi (Banaras) using silk threads and zari (gold or silver threads). These fabrics are known for their intricate designs, often inspired by nature, including motifs like floral patterns, peacocks, paisleys, and traditional Mughal or Persian influences.

The term khinkaab refers to a specific, highly refined type of brocade originating from Varanasi, recognized for its thick and rich texture. The fabric has a striking opulence, often woven with gold and silver zari, creating a sumptuous finish. Historically, khinkaab was considered the epitome of luxury and was used for royal garments and decor, symbolizing wealth and power. It’s often associated with scenes of nature—such as hunting motifs, peacocks, and forest creatures—which add to its narrative and cultural richness.

Brocade as a fabric continues to be a symbol of luxury, with modern designers often drawing inspiration from these ancient weaving techniques to create contemporary pieces with a rich historical legacy. It’s a fabric that tells a story, intertwining artistry and heritage with modern-day aesthetics, making it timeless in its appeal.