The Resurgence of Chikankari A Tale of Tradition and Transformation

Chikankari, with its intricate motifs delicately woven on the reverse side of fabric, embodies a narrative rich in dualities. Its legacy is adorned with conflicting stories about its origins, yet it remains a timeless textile art bridging the past with the present. While popular lore credits Nur Jehan with bringing chikankari to Lucknow, historical records trace its roots back to the era of Chandragupta Maurya. Nevertheless, its zenith blossomed under the patronage of the Mughals and the nawabs of Awadh.

Like many textile crafts, chikankari has weathered its share of highs and lows. Once the official attire of the lower court of Awadh until the 1930s, it yielded to colonial dress codes, gradually fading into obscurity as mass-produced imitations took center stage. However, the revival of this art owes much to the efforts of Indian designers, notably Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla and Manish Malhotra.

Reflecting on their journey with chikankari, Abu Jani reminisces, “We embarked on reinventing chikankari in 1992. Once a regal craft, by the eighties, it had devolved into crude, mass-market casual wear. Our mission was to elevate it to couture status. It took two years to train a new cadre of skilled craftswomen, but today, chikankari is synonymous with bridal, red carpet, and occasion wear.”

In 2010, Manish Malhotra embraced chikankari through the Mijwan Welfare Society (MWS), founded by Kaifi Azmi. “My involvement with chikankari transcends fashion; it’s about preserving heritage,” he shares. “Through collaboration with MWS, alongside Shabana Azmi and Namrata Goel, we empower girls with chikankari skills, ensuring both employment and the sustainability of the craft.”

The resurgence of chikankari stands as a testament to its enduring allure and the transformative power of collaboration. As designers and artisans join hands to breathe new life into this age-old tradition, chikankari continues to weave its intricate tapestry, bridging the past with a vibrant future.